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 Xi-zeng Zhao and Zhao-chen Sun.Influence of Wave Breaking on Wave Statistics for Finite-Depth Random Wave Trains[J].Journal of Marine Science and Application,2010,(1):8-13.
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Influence of Wave Breaking on Wave Statistics for Finite-Depth Random Wave Trains


Influence of Wave Breaking on Wave Statistics for Finite-Depth Random Wave Trains
Xi-zeng Zhao and Zhao-chen Sun
Xi-zeng Zhao and Zhao-chen Sun
1. RIAM, Kyushu University, Kasuga, Fukuoka 816-8580, Japan
 2. State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China
wave breaking wave statistics wave height distribution skewness kurtosis
The influence of wave breaking on wave statistics for finite-depth random wave trains is investigated experimentally. This paper is to investigate the influence of wave breaking and water depth on the wave statistics for random waves on water of finite depth. Greater attention is paid to changes in wave statistics due to wave breaking in random wave trains. The results show skewness of surface elevations is independent of wave breaking and kurtosis is suppressed by wave breaking. Finally, the exceedance probabilities for wave heights are also investigated.


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Supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China under Grant No.50579007 and the National High Technology Research and Development Program of China (863 Program) under Grant No. 2007AA11Z130.
Last Update: 2010-04-16