|Table of Contents|

Citation:
　Shuya Xie,Aifeng Tao,Xue Han,et al.Characteristics of Significant Wave Components in the Long Time Wave Evolution Process[J].Journal of Marine Science and Application,2023,(1):92-101.[doi:10.1007/s11804-023-00317-x]
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Characteristics of Significant Wave Components in the Long Time Wave Evolution Process

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Title:
Characteristics of Significant Wave Components in the Long Time Wave Evolution Process
Author(s):
Shuya Xie1; 2;  Aifeng Tao1; 2;  Xue Han3;  Xishan Pan3;  and Wei Xu1; 2
Affilations:
Author(s):
Shuya Xie1; 2;  Aifeng Tao1; 2;  Xue Han3;  Xishan Pan3;  and Wei Xu1; 2
1 Key Laboratory of the Ministry of Education for Coastal Disaster and Protection, Hohai University, Nanjing 210024, China;
2 College of Harbour, Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Hohai University, Nanjing 210024, China;
3 Tidal Flat Research Center of Jiangsu Province, Nanjing 210036, China
Keywords:
Spectral bandwidth|Significant wave components|Long-time wave evolution|Wave surface maximum|Maximum wave height
分类号:
-
DOI:
10.1007/s11804-023-00317-x
Abstract:
Spectral bandwidth is a relevant parameter of water wave evolution and is commonly used to represent the number of wave components involved in wave–wave interactions. However, whether these two parameters are equivalent is an open question. Following the high-order spectral method and taking the weakly modulated Stokes wave train as the initial condition, the relationship between the spectral bandwidth and the number of wave components is investigated in this work. The results showed that the number of wave components can vary with the same spectral bandwidth and that distinct wave profiles emerge from different numbers of wave components. With a new definition of significant wave components, the characteristics of this parameter in the long-time wave evolution are discussed, along with its relationship with common parameters, including the wave surface maximum and the wave height. The results reveal that the wave surface evolution trend of different numbers of significant wave components (Ns) is the same from a holistic perspective, while the difference between them also exists, mainly in locations where extreme waves occur. Furthermore, there is a negative correlation between r (aj/a0) and wave surface maximum (ηmax/a0) and wave height (Hmax and Hs). The evolution trends of the relative errors (RE) of ηmax/a0, Hmax, and Hs of different Ns show the periodic recurrence of modulation and demodulation in the early stage when the Benjamin–Feir instability is dominated. The difference is that in the later stage, the RE of ηmax/a0 and Hmax is chaotic and irregular, while those of Hs gradually stabilize near an equilibrium value. Furthermore, we discuss the relationship between the mean relative error (MRE) and r. For ηmax/a0, MRE and r show a logarithmic relationship, while for Hmax and Hs, a quadratic relationship exists between them. Therefore, the choice of Ns is also important for extreme waves and is particularly meaningful for wave generation experiments in the wave flume.

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Memo

Memo:
Received date:2022-7-2;Accepted date:2022-10-17。<br>Foundation item:Supported by the National Key Research and Development Program of China (Grant No. 2022YFE0104500), the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 52271271), and the Major Science and Technology Project of the Ministry of Water Resources of the People’s Republic of China (Grant No. SKS- 2022025).<br>Corresponding author:Aifeng Tao,E-mail:aftao@hhu.edu.cn
Last Update: 2023-04-10